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The FBAS is the UK's largest, non-profit making fishkeeping body.
This site will tell you all about us and what we do.
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But we want to hear from you too: if you have any fishkeeping problems or queries we're here to help , but if you're in the middle of a successful period with your fish then why not share the good news with us?

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        SETTING UP THE AQUARIUM

SITING THE AQUARIUM : Modern aquariums (all-glass or acrylic) are
                                           fragile so it is important that they are sited
                                            correctly.

Their base must be both firm and level; any unevenness will cause stresses in the construction resulting in a flood!

A filled aquarium is HEAVY so make sure that adequate floor support exists.

Do not site an aquarium in direct sunlight (it'll overheat in summer and grow too much algae!), opposite doorways or near radiators.
A quiet recess, where you can control its lighting, is preferable and, of course, there should be a power socket nearby!

SUBSTRATE & DECORATION : Only use 'safe' decorations.
                                                 Rocks should be non-soluble and contain no
                                                 metallic ores.
Sunken ruins, treasure chests and galleons must not be made of porous materials such as plaster; replica logs made from inert resins are fine.

Wash all substrates thoroughly. Rinse about half a bucketful at a time.
Spread over the tank base to about a depth of an inch or two: you can bank up the substrate towards the rear of the tank for a better visual effect - hold this banking in position by putting rocks in to act as terracing.

Pieces of bogwood look fine but make sure it is completely dead. You should soak it in several changes of water before use to get rid of most of the tannins in the wood, otherwise it will stain the water. Screw a flat plate on the bottom and bury this in the substrate to prevent the wood from floating.

HARDWARE :

Visible hardware is not exactly ideal, so hide heaters, filters and pipework behind rocks or plants but without hindering water flow around the tank.

   Heaters must be mounted clear of the substrate and have unrestricted water flow around them if they are not to overheat.



If external filters are used,
fit isolating hose-taps (one in the flow and one in the return) for ease of maintenance.




Airpumps should be situated above the tank if possible or an 'anti-siphon' loop formed in the airline to the aquarium. Alternatively, fit a non-return 'anti-siphon' valve in the airline to prevent water entering the pump if a power failure occurs.

Airlines are best connected to any diffusers in the tank via a controlling air valve. Similarly, power to the heaters, lights and filters is best connected via a 'Cable Tidy' switching facility mounted in the side of the aquarium.

                       DO NOT SWITCH ON ANY HARDWARE
                    UNTIL THE TANK IS FILLED WITH WATER

The cover glass and the hood are obviously placed in position after the tank has been furnished and filled with water.
Add a thermometer once the tank is filled.

© FBAS 1998 RCM/RDE         Aquarium Management Care Sheet 4 1/2

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